Spanish Wells

ELEUTHERA – SPANISH WHALES (I mean WELLS) – January 19, 2019

After departing our beloved Berry Islands, Boat Monkey’s next stop would be the island of Eleuthera. Eleuthera is a very long, thin island which sits approximately 50 miles east of Nassau. Eleuthera lies in a north-south configuration and is over 110 miles long and little more than a mile wide in a few spots. The entire island has a population of around 10,000 people. Even its most densely populated areas are really just small towns with the rest of the island being somewhat rural.

The name “Eleuthera” is derived from a Greek word meaning “free.” The original inhabitants were Arawak Indians who were decimated by Spanish enslavement and were gone by the mid-1550’s. The next natives were Puritan Pilgrims known as the “Eleutherian Adventurers” who arrived in 1648 and who gave the island its name. As with many islands, Eleuthera, and the Bahamas in general, have experienced many booms and busts of prosperity. Prior to changes resulting from Bahamian Independence in 1973, there was a lot of development, infrastructure improvement, and foreign investment throughout the Bahamas between 1950-1980. Not long after independence, foreign ownership laws and US tax laws changed and many of the resorts, properties, and businesses were either abandoned, sold for pennies on the dollar, or eventually failed.
Still known as the “Pineapple Island,” from its agricultural boom, there are several working pineapple farms on the island. There are also huge concrete silos dotting the landscape from the cattle ranches that once took up much of the land here. As with many Bahamian islands, there is a strange mix of abandoned and half derelict developments and new mega-developments underway. There remains a strong agricultural component here. Every property seems to have huge mango trees; we wish it was mango season!!

History aside, this is one of the most gorgeous islands we have visited. Eleuthera is known for its pink sand beaches, innumerable caves, and natural beauty…and we have not been disappointed! We have found the locals extremely genuine and friendly throughout the island, much as one would expect in small rural towns anywhere. We have been treated so kindly and generously here. The awesome people we have met coupled with Eluethera’s stunning natural attractions and beauty have caused us to slow down and let most of our cruising buddy boats pull on ahead of us. In the end, we will have lingered here for what will be weeks before we move on to the Exumas. We could explore this island for months before getting sick of it.

There are three main regions of the island; north, central, and south Eleuthera. From the Berry Islands, we sailed S/V Eileen to the northern town of Spanish Wells…which will now forever be referred to as “Spanish Whales.” Our friends on S/V Holiday are from Georgia…and Celia, Boat Monkey and I had a good laugh when they would come on the radio with their southern drawl, making “Wells” sound like “Whaaales.” The next time we were chatting on the radio, I asked how these whales had swam all the way from Spain! That got a chuckle.

We arrived after dark on a moonless night and were a little nervous coming into the main harbor area at night. It ended up being pretty straight forward and we anchored off the town for the night to get some rest. Early the next morning, we decided to pull into the marina for some fresh water, showers, laundry, and shore-side provisions. Spanish Wells is a very quaint and well-kept town which still boasts an active fishing fleet. The town had an industrious and active energy to it. Spanish Wells has a big grocery store and we were excited to get some fresh veggies. We rented a golf cart to get our errands done and explore the area a bit. I was in a bit of a rush to get the work done so we could go play. I had set the gas and diesel jugs on the back of the golf cart and I apparently forgot to tie them off! As I turned the first corner, there was a loud noise! I looked behind us and it was a YARD SALE! Jugs were bouncing all over the road! I got a couple “stupid tourist” looks from passers-by as Celia and Boat Monkey laughed at me from the cart. I got the jugs re-secured, and with only my pride hurt, set to getting the errands done.

Later in the day, we were able to take a ride outside town to a small beach bar where we soaked up a little down time and then made our way back to the marina to get cleaned up. Celia met some cruisers from Carmel, Indiana aboard S/V Big Frisky who were really cool folks. They and our friends from S/V Holiday and S/V Wandering Princess all met up at one of the cool local watering holes named “Buddah’s”. They had some great Happy Hour specials and good cheap food. WINNER! Celia and I hung out after Happy Hour while we waited for a call back that our propane tank had been filled. It had been a full and busy day and we retired to the boat for the evening. We would need to be leaving with the fair weather early the following morning.

Although we likely would have anchored off the town and stayed longer, we were faced with the prospect of a very nasty cold front coming our way over the next week or so. SV Eileen would need to be tucked in somewhere protected for several days. There were no great options near Spanish Wells and we could not afford to stay in the Spanish Wells Yacht Harbor Marina for so many nights. It would be necessary to get on the move. We picked a very secure anchorage at Hatchet Bay, about 1/3 of the way south along the west coast of Eleuthera. This would end up being a great choice! While the online reviews for the area said things like “not much to do here” or “a little run down” etc., we found Hatchet Bay to be one of the most fun and genuine experiences we have had in the Bahamas. We lingered here for over a week enjoying the hospitality of the locals and visiting some amazing natural attractions and caves. I can’t wait to write about it! But you will have to wait for the next post to read about that!

We are currently anchored in Rock Sound, South Eleuthera. We continue to linger here while all of our cruising buddies have moved on. It has given us a chance to explore some of the most beautiful spots on the island, meet new friends, connect with a former Seacamper who gave us an incredible tour of the facility she works at (more to come on that, too), and take a few deep breaths before we sail on. I will also admit that our next destination is remote…staying here in Rock Sound will allow me to watch The Patriots and Tom Brady earn their SIXTH Superbowl Championship on Sunday. Not only that, but the bar we are anchored next to has a Patriots fan for the bartender!

Until next time, the crew of SV Eileen hopes you enjoy the FB pics and more detailed posts here at BoatMonkeyAdventures.com! With love, Todd, Celia, Boat Monkey, and Captain Cluck.
GRATITUDE EVERY DAY!